{"id":591,"date":"2025-06-10T08:24:40","date_gmt":"2025-06-10T08:24:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/levoshin.com\/?p=591"},"modified":"2025-06-12T20:50:00","modified_gmt":"2025-06-12T20:50:00","slug":"7-encounters-in-buenos-aires","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/levoshin.com\/en\/7-encounters-in-buenos-aires\/","title":{"rendered":"7 Encounters in Buenos Aires: A City of Absurdity and Magic"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I met a lawyer who said he doesn\u2019t practice anymore \u2014 he\u2019s now a chef at his family\u2019s restaurant. He invited me to a pasta tasting. By the third glass of wine, he confessed his dream was to flee to Uruguay and grow strawberries. When I asked why he went to law school, he replied:&nbsp;<em>\u201cFor my mother.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-\u0443\u0440\u043e\u043a-\u043c\u0435\u0434\u0438\u0430\u043b\u0443\u043d\u044b-\u0432-\u043c\u0438\u0433\u0440\u0430\u0446\u0438\u043e\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0439-\u043e\u0447\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0434\u0438\">A lesson in medialuna etiquette, straight from immigration<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>While waiting in line at immigration, I chatted with a guy from Iran. He taught me how to properly eat a medialuna: \u201cYou have to dunk it in your coffee.\u201d I was skeptical. Then we shared some mate, and he told me he\u2019d moved here for a girl who ended up marrying his neighbor. He stayed in Buenos Aires anyway \u2014 he\u2019d already learned Spanish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-\u0434\u0438\u0434\u0436\u0435\u0439-\u043a\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0440\u044b\u0439-\u043a\u0430\u0447\u0430\u0435\u0442-\u043c\u044d\u0440\u0438\u044e-\u0434\u043d\u0451\u043c-\u043f\u0430\u043b\u0435\u0440\u043c\u043e-\u043d\u043e\u0447\u044c\u044e\">DJ by night, city clerk by day<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>I met a DJ who works at the local municipality. He told me,&nbsp;<em>\u201cBy day I stamp papers, by night I shake up Palermo.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;At the party, he played some kind of electronic music with Tibetan horns and whispered French vocals. The crowd loved it. I was...confused.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-\u0442\u0430\u043d\u0433\u043e-\u0444\u043b\u0438\u0440\u0442-\u0432-\u043a\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0440\u043a\u0438\u043d\u0433\u0435\">Tango flirting at a coworking space<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>At a coworking space, I befriended a woman who teaches tango to digital nomads. She said tango is \u201cthe language of what\u2019s left unsaid.\u201d Then she started flirting with me through long pauses in our conversation. I panicked and escaped into a Zoom call \u2014 facing a blank wall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-\u043d\u0435\u043a\u0440\u043e\u043c\u0430\u043d\u0442\u043a\u0430-\u0441-\u0440\u0435\u043a\u043e\u043b\u0435\u0442\u044b\">The necromancer of Recoleta<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>I met a girl who lives in a French-style retirement district and studies necromancy. Seriously. She said Recoleta Cemetery has the best energy for feeling souls. We texted for a while \u2014 until she sent me a selfie at a tombstone captioned:&nbsp;<em>\u201cWaiting for you.\u201d<\/em>I chose not to continue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-\u0431\u0430\u0440-\u0438\u0437-\u0441\u0442\u0430\u0440\u044b\u0445-\u0442\u0435\u043b\u0435\u0432\u0438\u0437\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0432\">A bar made of old televisions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>I met a guy who works at a bank but dreams of opening a bar \u2014 for friends only. His concept? Everything made from old TVs: the stools, the counters, even the bathroom sink. The bar would be called *\u201cLo que no se ve\u201d.<strong>I told him it was genius. He said,&nbsp;<em>\u201cLo s\u00e9\u201d<\/em><\/strong>&nbsp;\u201cLo s\u00e9\u201d and poured me another fernet and coke.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-\u0431\u0443\u044d\u043d\u043e\u0441-\u0430\u0439\u0440\u0435\u0441-\u0433\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0434-\u043a\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0440\u044b\u0439-\u0448\u0430\u0442\u0430\u0435\u0442-\u043d\u043e-\u043d\u0435-\u043e\u0442\u043f\u0443\u0441\u043a\u0430\u0435\u0442\">Buenos Aires: a city that stumbles, but never lets go<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>\u0422\u0430\u043a\u0438\u043c \u044f \u0437\u0430\u043f\u043e\u043c\u043d\u0438\u043b \u0411\u0443\u044d\u043d\u043e\u0441-\u0410\u0439\u0440\u0435\u0441 \u2014 \u0433\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0434, \u0433\u0434\u0435 \u0431\u0430\u043d\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0435 \u043a\u043b\u0435\u0440\u043a\u0438 \u043c\u0435\u0447\u0442\u0430\u044e\u0442 \u043e \u0431\u0430\u0440\u0430\u0445-\u043f\u0440\u0438\u0437\u0440\u0430\u043a\u0430\u0445, \u0434\u0438\u0434\u0436\u0435\u0438 \u0440\u0430\u0431\u043e\u0442\u0430\u044e\u0442 \u0432 \u043c\u044d\u0440\u0438\u0438, \u0430 \u0441\u043b\u0443\u0447\u0430\u0439\u043d\u044b\u0435 \u0432\u0441\u0442\u0440\u0435\u0447\u0438 \u0432 \u043c\u0438\u0433\u0440\u0430\u0446\u0438\u0438 \u043f\u0440\u0435\u0432\u0440\u0430\u0449\u0430\u044e\u0442\u0441\u044f \u0432 \u0443\u0440\u043e\u043a\u0438 \u0436\u0438\u0437\u043d\u0438. <a href=\"https:\/\/levoshin.com\/en\/6-encounters-in-sydney\/\">\u0413\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0434, \u0432 \u043a\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0440\u043e\u043c \u0440\u0435\u0430\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c \u0448\u0430\u0442\u0430\u0435\u0442\u0441\u044f<\/a>, \u043a\u0430\u043a \u0430\u0432\u0442\u043e\u0431\u0443\u0441 \u043d\u0430 \u043f\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0442\u0435 \u0432 \u041f\u0430\u043b\u0435\u0440\u043c\u043e \u2014 \u0438 \u0432 \u044d\u0442\u043e\u043c \u0432\u0441\u044f \u0435\u0433\u043e \u043c\u0430\u0433\u0438\u044f.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A lawyer-chef, a city hall DJ, a tango teacher, and a necromancer \u2014 in Buenos Aires, every encounter feels like a scene from a surreal movie.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":592,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10,14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-591","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-argentina","category-life"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v26.6 (Yoast SEO v27.5) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>7 \u0432\u0441\u0442\u0440\u0435\u0447 \u0432 \u0411\u0443\u044d\u043d\u043e\u0441-\u0410\u0439\u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435: \u0433\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0434 \u0430\u0431\u0441\u0443\u0440\u0434\u0430, \u043c\u0430\u0433\u0438\u0438 \u0438 \u043c\u0435\u0434\u0438\u0430\u043b\u0443\u043d\u044b - \u041c\u0430\u043a\u0441\u0438\u043c 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